Tribal Matters
Takwenya! (hello in Maa)
Being in the Maasai region, we see Massai everywhere. Some are obvious in their distinctive red and blue clothing, body piercings, jewelry, and walking sticks. I still do a double take when I see these men (and some women) in the grocery store or the bank. Others, like the women in my placement, blend in more with their surroundings, to some extent by command of the church. These women's families have been Christian for a few generations, and the church is very strict about the consequences of certain traditions. The women clearly identify as Maasai and they speak Maa, the Maasai language, but they've learned to ridicule some of the traditional beliefs.
I had a chance to witness these traditions and hear about these beliefs when I went on a "cultural safari" to a Maasai village about a week ago. The Maasai live in bomas (enclosures) of maybe 30 adults and children, all related to each other in some way. Their huts are small on the outside and surprisingly spacious on the inside, although they're also very smoky. The women and men separately showed us how they dance, and we mzungus joined both groups. I was, of course, the first one to take up their offer! They showed us how to make some simple beaded jewelry; we interviewed the boma's elder; and we played a lot with the children. We learned about their traditional medicine and were glad that we don't have to use it. Everything they use on cuts is apparently excruciatingly painful. We also watched a traditional goat ceremony, which includes eating not only the meat but also the blood because that is the life and the strength of the animal. The Maasai are complete party animals. They get up at the crack of dawn and only eat one meal a day, but they were dancing long after we were asleep.
Cows are sacred to the Maasai. They believe that God gave the tribe all cattle on earth. Because of this, the Maasai have developed a fierce warrior culture to protect themselves against wild animals but also to gain more cows by stealing them from other tribes. You get just as many "points" for stealing a cow as for killing a lion! Needless to say, this has not led to good relations with the neighbors - those who were left...
One region to the east is the area of the Chaga tribe. We were able to see two traditional types of Chaga homes on a field trip last week. In good times, Chagas lived in two story huts, made a lot of banana beer, and tended to their livestock and farms. Husbands had multiple wives and wives had one husband but official "lovers" to ensure plenty of children (insurance) for everyone. Sons live in the mother's house until they're seven, and then they live with their fathers. Daughters stay on until they're married. Our assistant program director lived in this type of household until he was 10, although the model has almost completely died out. One really nice touch is that each homestead has a sacred space surrounded by plants where they carry out lifecycle events, important conversations, meditation, etc.
In adaptation to the Maasai, the Chaga kept their livestock in pens by day and inside the huts by night. Each family also built an elaborate system of tunnels in which they could live (with their livestock) for up to six months if necessary in times of Maasai attacks. The Maasai and Chaga are now at peace, although the Maasai still attach other tribes.
I'm thinking of starting my own tribe. Let me know if you have any suggestions!
Serena (goodnight in Maa),
Jenna
Being in the Maasai region, we see Massai everywhere. Some are obvious in their distinctive red and blue clothing, body piercings, jewelry, and walking sticks. I still do a double take when I see these men (and some women) in the grocery store or the bank. Others, like the women in my placement, blend in more with their surroundings, to some extent by command of the church. These women's families have been Christian for a few generations, and the church is very strict about the consequences of certain traditions. The women clearly identify as Maasai and they speak Maa, the Maasai language, but they've learned to ridicule some of the traditional beliefs.
I had a chance to witness these traditions and hear about these beliefs when I went on a "cultural safari" to a Maasai village about a week ago. The Maasai live in bomas (enclosures) of maybe 30 adults and children, all related to each other in some way. Their huts are small on the outside and surprisingly spacious on the inside, although they're also very smoky. The women and men separately showed us how they dance, and we mzungus joined both groups. I was, of course, the first one to take up their offer! They showed us how to make some simple beaded jewelry; we interviewed the boma's elder; and we played a lot with the children. We learned about their traditional medicine and were glad that we don't have to use it. Everything they use on cuts is apparently excruciatingly painful. We also watched a traditional goat ceremony, which includes eating not only the meat but also the blood because that is the life and the strength of the animal. The Maasai are complete party animals. They get up at the crack of dawn and only eat one meal a day, but they were dancing long after we were asleep.
Cows are sacred to the Maasai. They believe that God gave the tribe all cattle on earth. Because of this, the Maasai have developed a fierce warrior culture to protect themselves against wild animals but also to gain more cows by stealing them from other tribes. You get just as many "points" for stealing a cow as for killing a lion! Needless to say, this has not led to good relations with the neighbors - those who were left...
One region to the east is the area of the Chaga tribe. We were able to see two traditional types of Chaga homes on a field trip last week. In good times, Chagas lived in two story huts, made a lot of banana beer, and tended to their livestock and farms. Husbands had multiple wives and wives had one husband but official "lovers" to ensure plenty of children (insurance) for everyone. Sons live in the mother's house until they're seven, and then they live with their fathers. Daughters stay on until they're married. Our assistant program director lived in this type of household until he was 10, although the model has almost completely died out. One really nice touch is that each homestead has a sacred space surrounded by plants where they carry out lifecycle events, important conversations, meditation, etc.
In adaptation to the Maasai, the Chaga kept their livestock in pens by day and inside the huts by night. Each family also built an elaborate system of tunnels in which they could live (with their livestock) for up to six months if necessary in times of Maasai attacks. The Maasai and Chaga are now at peace, although the Maasai still attach other tribes.
I'm thinking of starting my own tribe. Let me know if you have any suggestions!
Serena (goodnight in Maa),
Jenna
posted by Jenna @ 11:09 AM
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